valandian-in Africa: Masai Mara

July 13

Travelled from Lake Nakuru to Nerok along the C57 – the roughest of roads. Nerok to Masai Mara was slightly better but not much. The alternative route via mostly black top was more than twice the distance so the C57 it was!

We arrived at Keekorok Lodge feeling slightly wobbly from all the bumping around, but soon got over it. The lodge is in a great location almost centred within the reserve so we would not have to travel long distances to reach anywhere in the park. They have their own hippo pool with resident hippos, which were lovely to visit. They set up a bar there in the evening and you can sit and watch them as the sun goes down!

We had an afternoon safari with Abraham which was very exciting because we spotted our second male lion (the first was at a distance in Lake Nakuru). He was recently in a fight as he had an open wound near his eye. Probably fighting for the female he was with. We learned a lot about the nature of lions and the way they ensure the strength of the pride.

Well loaded donkeys

Local Maasai accompanied the donkeys

Evidence of the types of roads we had travelled

Before he left us to sort out our entry paperwork, our guide warned us we would be mobbed by Maasai women

Hippos in the pool at Keekorok Lodge

We came across this beautiful male lion and his lioness.

The lioness too wandered through the vehicles unperturbed

Looking very much the worse for wear. He will apparently heal in a day or so

His lioness needs to get hunting by the looks of things

This other male lion was sleeping in the vicinity of the wounded male so perhaps he was the one who lost the fight

Ready - come and get me! The pink limbs and neck tell it all

A vulture sitting on its nest surrounded by weaver bird nests

July 14

Today was our balloon safari. Abraham had it all organised and our driver was there as promised very early in the morning to take us, in the dark, through the park to where the balloons take off. This took about an hour! It was quite amazing how skilled he was negotiating the rough roads in total darkness. Remember wild animals can jump out of the grass (which was very tall, because the migration had not yet reached here) at any time.

The safari pictures will tell the story. We were fortunate to be in a small group of 6 in a basket. The other two balloons were 16 people! During the flight we saw herds of wildebeest, zebra (of course) impala and a male lion in the long grass.

The breakfast was wonderful. Champagne (of course!), juice, cereal, lots of hot food choices, tea or coffee. Sitting in the middle of the Masai Mara – bliss.

On our return drive (arriving back much later than expected) we passed lots of zebra, wildebeest, a giraffe and young and two young male cheetah with a recent kill. Our driver was on the phone a lot, but this became apparent why when we returned. Abraham had taken our companions in the same direction as the balloons so they could catch a glimpse and they had come across the cheetah. He phoned our driver to tell him the location so we could see them too! However, he was also anxious that we were late! So caring.

In the dark, in the middle of the Masai Mara - we have wifi for payment of Balloon Safari!!!

Firing up

Getting excited

Can't take photos during take-off. We were soon up and we could see the support vehicles which follow our route

A beautiful sunrise

Lots of balloons were flying from other places

As our pilot calls them the Maasai antelope! Look closely you can what they are and the tell tale red cloak of the Maasai herder

Animal tracks through the long grass

Wildebeest have been through here and taken down the long grass

One happy lady

Easy to see the grass which hasn't yet been eaten

Their sole purpose in life eat and move on, heading north, then turn around and return south and do it all again

Ian managed to capture our reflection in the river

Our pilot Lennart

What better place for an early morning champagne

The sign says it all

Some wonderful wildlife we saw on our return journey

So many vehicles - much be something significant! Notice all the game around too

Here's the reason

Still watchful

Hartebeast keeping an eye on things

On our afternoon game drive. Another amorous lion with two females!

Wifi in the middle of nowhere is not so hard!

A beautiful secretary bird. Usually seen on the ground

July 15

Full day safari today. Lunch boxes as well!

Saw eland, cheetah (with the incumbent traffic jam!). Mara = one spotted tree in Maasai. We would say there are occasional trees dotting the landscape. Mara is much easier! They are very economical with their words in most tribal languages. Saw the lappet faced vulture.

Went up to Lookout Hill – amazing view right across to the Mara River which is where the wildebeests cross during migration. Abraham has the skill to know where to look for wildlife and frequently takes the tracks less travelled. We were on one such track when he stopped and said there was a cheetah on the road ahead. Do you think we could see it? Once he described where along the road it was (about half a kilometre away!) we could spot a black dot!

We approached with caution. When we were close enough for the cheetah to be aware of the engine (which Abraham keeps very low) the cheetah stopped, looked, and then ran. We stopped and the cheetah continued to walk. We continued to do this until the cheetah no longer ran and we were able to pass her slowly and sit further along the road to watch her approach. Such is the awesome skill of our guide!

We had this cheetah all to ourselves for quite a while. A bit later a ranger vehicle came along and apparently they told Abraham that they had been trying to find this female cheetah for about 5 days. Then, guess what, another vehicle arrived from the opposite direction. We were close to a fork in the road and the vehicle had overshot because it was travelling in the opposite direction to the cheetah. He proceeded to reverse, engine, screaming, up the other fork to get a good view. We were appalled. Rightly so the ranger vehicle went and gave him a warning for such behaviour. Again we were extremely appreciative of Abraham's skill when approaching animals.

We had seen some lions yesterday but were on the wrong side of the river for a really clear view. Today, however, we were able to approach from the opposite side and returned to see them. They were still there. A male and two females. A male lion will stay with a female away from the main pride and they mate several times a day for about 5-7 days. This ensures this female will become pregnant with his sperm. After all he has probably fought for her in any case, the results of which we had seen earlier.

Lunch was under one of the singular trees which was on top of a hill overlooking the plains. Again we collected up the remainder and boxed it up to give to a family along the way the next day.

It was a long day of driving and we saw so many sights. We headed for the Mara River and looked along this famous waterway. No wildebeest crossing en masse, but you can clearly see the tracks down the river banks where they scramble down one side and up the other. Abraham said the migration would not be very spectacular this season because with the lack of water in the river they would not need to swim across.

Saw the crocodiles waiting patiently as well as some hippos and lots of storks. The Maribou stork is another bird which cleans up after other wildlife have had their fill of a kill.

Finally we went to another lookout close to a tributary of the Mara and we could see huge herds of migrating wildebeest on the far side all gradually eating their way through the grassland before braving the Mara River crossing.

Amazing such large birds are able to next in the trees

A pair of lappet faced vultures on their nest

Another rather fine eland

Even the tails have their own distinct, unique pattern

The cheetah spotted walking on the track, once she allowed us to come closer

She was quite happy as we followed her

Stopping for a drink

Then she wandered on again. You can see the track which forked to the left from the track we were on. The rogue safari vehicle reversed up this track to give the passengers a good view. However, she went way into the grass ....