valandian-in Africa: Soussousvlei to Luderitz

August 14

We left Hammerstein lodge and the beautiful mountain desert to return to the coast. No picture can do justice to what we looked out upon on this journey. I'm sounding like a cracked record, but it is true.

A short stop at the eccentric Duswibib Castle provided an interesting break in the journey. Then an early lunch at Helmeringshausen (pits stops are few and far between in this barren country) to sample the famous apple cake. After a fuel stop at Aus it was on to Luderitz. This area is well known for feral horses as well as diamonds. In a way it turned out to be lucky we were visiting a water hole to see the horses as we had a mechanical emergency with the coach – it has surprised us that more has not gone wrong with the coach with the roads we have travelled. Our driver had replacement batteries and we were soon on our way. Unfortunately we did not find any diamonds!

Early morning at Hammerstein Lodge, another favourite place

Amazing landscapes

Dust storms abound

Built by an eccentric German. One has to ask - why?

Looking at a picture of the eccentric German's mother possibly explains why - she looks formidable

The lunch stop at Helmeringshausen

More local animals used as grass cutters. This springbok could get a bit frisky so I was trying to keep an eye on those horns

The wild horses are believed to be abandoned army horses from the war

So many fascinating road signs. This one for hyena

These last two were definitely needed

This is the landscape of where we are headed

August 15

This morning we had a boat trip organised – a refreshing change from bouncing around along dirt roads. Refreshing being the operative word! It was darned cold! We had great viewing of the local sea life most important of which was the colony of penguins which inhabit one of the offshore islands. We saw Benguela dolphins, African (formerly Jackass) penguins, cormorants - there are four varieties local to here – white breasted (the largest), Banks, Cape (smaller with yellow on its beak), crowned (with orange cheeks) – little grebe, greater flamingo (so strange seeing flamingos on the coast) and the African oyster catcher. Cape gulls were also in abundance.

A rather grim looking day for a boat trip, and the whole town is rather desolate. This is the dock

All rugged up and ready to go. They provided us with blankets!

This boat has seen better days

The weather was whipping up the seas. Those prone to sea sickness seemed to cope alright though

The seals were loving it

Little grebes

This colony used to be much larger, but with the mining of the phosphate and presence of humans the penguin numbers were decimated. Now they are protected and numbers are increasing

Hard to see which of the cormorants these are

Big seas poured over the rocks to a lagoon area

One of the few remaining buildings from the phosphate mining days

Oyster catchers really stand out with their red eyes and red beaks

In my element - apart from the cold! Wildlife and water what more could I want for?

On our way back to town the dolphins put on a fabulous show

When we returned to the coach we headed out of town to visit the ghost town of Kolmanskop. This town died in 1927 after an illustrious diamond rush from 189. 5,369,814 carats of diamonds were mined in seven years. The power of this precious stone! Diamond mining still continues in the area but it is very strictly controlled and security is tight. A huge fine or a year in gaol for smuggling!

A very interesting museum has been established in the former theatre

The blowing sands are eating away at the buildings. A really desolate place

During the afternoon we walked into town to look at some of the historic buildings and visit the Lutheran church which stands high on the hill, dominating the town. It was built in 1912 and a church warden comes to open it for viewing the beautiful stained glass windows every afternoon at 4pm. At this time the sun streams in through the windows. A dazzling sight.