valandian-in Africa: Swakopmund to Sossousvlei

August 12

We left Swakopmund, heading inland again as there is no coastal road, then south and once again out to the coast to Walvis Bay. After viewing the local flamingo population, we headed once again into the desert.

Never knew before coming here that you could see flamingos on the coast

Jolly cold early in the morning, layers, layers, layers

The stark flat, landscape gave way to a rocky undulating landscape containing many gullies and canyons. The road follows the Kuisep Canyon. Photos, once again, do not do justice to this incredible landscape. We continued our journey across another undulating plain then through the Haub Canyon

Even in the desert in Namibia the stone piling craze persists!

We were to see many of these quiver trees which are a feature of the Namib desert

It certainly was a narrow bridge ....

but it's the people and vehicles which create difficulties!

Looking back towards the bridge where there is a proper pull over!

So now you can see where we are geographically. Heading south.

After a stop at Solitaire (appropriately named!) we continued through inhospitable countryside, but stunning in its own way, to our lodge. The flat plain we crossed was walled on either side by stark mountains which were many different shades of grey and ochre. The plain was a contrast with blue-grey and pale golden grasses with an occasional tree or groups of shrubs. Believe it or not this is cattle grazing country. However, there are many species of wildlife - zebra, oryx and springbok being the most common. A number of lodges and campsites dot the plain. This area is famous for the sand dunes of Sossousvlei where we go tomorrow.

As the population comes and goes the sign is manually changed

The general dealer was just that selling everything from souvenirs to food to general supplies for travellers

This countryside was barren but just phenomenal

Our accommodation, Hammerstein lodge, was basic but comfortable. We were in for lots of fun tomorrow.

August 13

Up at 0430. Away by 0530. We reached the gate of the Namib-Naukluft NP at 0630. It was cold, very cold, but where we were headed we would soon warm up. It was also foggy which had two advantages – the atmospheric photographs and we would not get so hot on our dune walk!

The colours of the dunes as we drove in were spectacular. Dune 45 is the most famous, being the one used for brochures and promo material. Unfortunately, this is also one that many visitors want to climb and there is nothing to say they can't. Our guide prefers to keep it pristine so we went to the 4WD centre and were driven to the vlei (salt pan) and we climbed Sossous dune.

Oryx are supremely adapted to this harsh environment

It was very cold

Very cold indeed!

Climbers at the top of Dune 45

Then the fog started to roll in

Fortunately this was not our transport out to the vlei

We found some less fortunate travellers bogged in the deep sandy track. 4WD or no this track required very skilled drivers

And so we set off

Not yet half way

Some could not make it

The vlei or salt pan from high up on the dune

Walking poles are so helpful

The sand is so soft, at one stage I thought I would not make it

Yay! we made it!

The way down was intimidating at first but a lot easier than the climb .....

and a whole lot of fun!

These springbok were clambering around the dunes

By the time we returned to Dune 45 most of the climbers had gone. We were able to take some lovely shots.

An amazing experience

After an early lunch we visited Sesriem Canyon. During the time when bullock trains were used for transportation, this canyon, when running after heavy rains was used as a watering point. Sesriem refers to the six leather thongs from the bullock harnesses, which were needed to be joined to lower a bucket to the water.

We saw lots of these beetles scurrying about in the desert

The desert was captivating

The grounds of our lodge were like a little oasis

Who needs a goat when you can have a springbok

A further treat was in store this afternoon. A walk with the cheetahs. There are two caracal cats, two cheetahs and a leopard on this property. All rescued and hand raised. The caracals are rather fierce cats and not to be messed with, but usually keep themselves to themselves. Lisa the leopard is definitely not to be messed with but the two cheetahs you can walk with and pat having been raised since they were born. What an experience.