Saturday, 10 October 2015

Luderitz and across the border to South Africa



August 16
Our last full day in Namibia. Cañon Roadhouse is our accommodation for one last night. What a wonderful place it was to stay as well. So much character with décor made from old cars, signs, number plates and all things motor.

This beautiful oyster catcher was pottering about outside our window this morning

Now this is where we will be heading before crossing the border

Even a German influence in the road signs - Lion River

So many unusual signs - this one with an additional warning - Caution, no fences!

Comfortably accommodated at this amazingly quirky motel




The restaurant/bar/souvenir shop/reception area is all in the one massive barn area

Hell yeah!!!

More wonderful landscapes


Our new found friends enjoying a pre-dinner drink

Dinner was a fun affair

Ian went for one of the walks from the lodge. I could not make it.

A pity there were some lovely views

The walks are identified by different labels

And you follow the footprints




August 17
Cañon Roadhouse is located adjacent to the Fish River Canyon NP. This was our major stop for the day. This canyon is the 2nd largest in the world and has been on my bucket list for a long time. Not many tour companies travel this far south in Namibia so I was delighted to find one which included this natural wonder. Then it was a final stretch of dirt road before heading for the border.




One of the main attractions is for walkers who undertake the 5-day hike


This place is so isolated.








Really?
Some facts about Namibia:
The Portuguese landed in1480. The Germans laid claim in 1884 and South West Africa was re-named German South West Africa. So it remained until after WWI when South African troops were sent in by the British and the country was administered by South Africa until SWAPO (South West Africa People's Organisation) rose up in 1966. After years of unrest independence was finally granted in1989.
Population approx. 2m. Many unique tribes including the bare breasted Himba and uniquely dressed Herero. 825,000 sq km with over 1500km of coast. Namibia shares a border with Angola to the north, South Africa to the south and Botswana and Zambia to the east. Much of the country is desert with 45,400km road network of which only 6400km is tarred.
After border formalities we pushed on to Springbok for our overnight stop. We passed through Namaqualand where the wild flowers were already in evidence with a profusion of purple, yellow, white and orange scattered between shrubs of various shades of green. A stark contrast to the desert country of its northern neighbour.

Well I suppose they tried!!!

The Orange River marks the border between Namibia and South Africa

It is a big river and, at least on the South Africa Side, there is a huge industry in agriculture


The wildflowers were just emerging








Friday, 9 October 2015

Soussousvlei to Luderitz



August 14
We left Hammerstein lodge and the beautiful mountain desert to return to the coast. No picture can do justice to what we looked out upon on this journey. I'm sounding like a cracked record, but it is true.
A short stop at the eccentric Duswibib Castle provided an interesting break in the journey. Then an early lunch at Helmeringshausen (pits stops are few and far between in this barren country) to sample the famous apple cake. After a fuel stop at Aus it was on to Luderitz. This area is well known for feral horses as well as diamonds. In a way it turned out to be lucky we were visiting a water hole to see the horses as we had a mechanical emergency with the coach – it has surprised us that more has not gone wrong with the coach with the roads we have travelled. Our driver had replacement batteries and we were soon on our way. Unfortunately we did not find any diamonds!

Early morning at Hammerstein Lodge, another favourite place

Amazing landscapes

Dust storms abound

Built by an eccentric German. One has to ask - why?

Looking at a picture of the eccentric German's mother possibly explains why - she looks formidable




The lunch stop at Helmeringshausen
More local animals used as grass cutters. This springbok could get a bit frisky so I was trying to keep an eye on those horns



The wild horses are believed to be abandoned army horses from the war

So many fascinating road signs. This one for hyena


These last two were definitely needed

This is the landscape of where we are headed


August 15
This morning we had a boat trip organised – a refreshing change from bouncing around along dirt roads. Refreshing being the operative word! It was darned cold! We had great viewing of the local sea life most important of which was the colony of penguins which inhabit one of the offshore islands. We saw Benguela dolphins, African (formerly Jackass) penguins, cormorants -  there are four varieties local to here – white breasted (the largest), Banks, Cape (smaller with yellow on its beak), crowned (with orange cheeks) – little grebe, greater flamingo (so strange seeing flamingos on the coast) and the African oyster catcher. Cape gulls were also in abundance.
A rather grim looking day for a boat trip, and the whole town is rather desolate. This is the dock

All rugged up and ready to go. They provided us with blankets!

This boat has seen better days

The weather was whipping up the seas. Those prone to sea sickness seemed to cope alright though

The seals were loving it




Little grebes

This colony used to be much larger, but with the mining of the phosphate and presence of humans the penguin numbers were decimated. Now they are protected and numbers are increasing




Hard to see which of the cormorants these are

Big seas poured over the rocks to a lagoon area

One of the few remaining buildings from the phosphate mining days

Oyster catchers really stand out with their red eyes and red beaks





In my element - apart from the cold! Wildlife and water what more could I want for?
On our way back to town the dolphins put on a fabulous show




When we returned to the coach we headed out of town to visit the ghost town of Kolmanskop. This town died in 1927 after an illustrious diamond rush from 189. 5,369,814 carats of diamonds were mined in seven years. The power of this precious stone! Diamond mining still continues in the area but it is very strictly controlled and security is tight. A huge fine or a year in gaol for smuggling!


A very interesting museum has been established in the former theatre

The blowing sands are eating away at the buildings. A really desolate place
During the afternoon we walked into town to look at some of the historic buildings and visit the Lutheran church which stands high on the hill, dominating the town. It was built in 1912 and a church warden comes to open it for viewing the beautiful stained glass windows every afternoon at 4pm. At this time the sun streams in through the windows. A dazzling sight.
Such an interesting but very isolated town

Looking up the hill towards the church

View from the top outside the church. Our hotel is located centre left

Martin Luther in the centre window. This is a Lutheran church


They certainly know how to locate churches!

View from our hotel room


Homes for workers are located away from the main part of town

Well, yes!

A beautiful sunset to finish the day